Travel to Old Goa

Founded in 1510 by Alfonso de Albuquerque as the capital center, Old Goa is situated nine kilometers east of Panaji or Panjim. If you travel to Goa, specially to Old Goa, you will see that the place is replete with churches and more churches. The Se Cathedral, the Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Professed House and Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Church and Convent of St. Monica, the Church of St. Cajetan and the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine are, probably, the most mentionable of the lot. But the list of old buildings, all reflecting the chapters of bygone times, doesn't quite end here. Take the local bus from Panaji or Panjim and chat up the friendly-faced Goan by your side. See his face light up as he tells you what more is there in Old Goa. In fact, he'll probably tell you what all the books together might not.

Then and Now
From the days of yore, the coasts of Goa have attracted hoards of seafaring merchants for business and trade. And Old Goa's natural harbor was always eyed with yearning looks as it was ideally situated as a center for their activities. The local rulers, the Bahmanis, were not oblivious to these glances and quickly shifted their capital to one of Goa's most beautiful parts, which became Goa's international entrecote called variously as Goa Doirada, or Golden Goa, Velha Goa or Old Goa.

Several ships belonging to the Arabs, Jews, Persians and Malabaris called at this port. As they unloaded, riches filled the countryside, an account of which dazzles the imagination! Majestic horses, some white, some black and some a shade of brown shook their manes as they got off the ship from Arabia or Persia. Persian carpets were their other merchandize. Then there were slaves who came in from East Africa. Glittering diamonds, rubies and pearls, textiles, opium, rose water and silver and gold came in from other parts of India, Ceylon and China.

Grandeur was the middle name for this flourishing port, which soon came alive with many magnificent palaces, mosques, temples, orchards and commercial centers. Old Goa was a center for Haj pilgrimage. It was also famous for its ship building industry.

One among the seafarers, however, now looked straight at this lovely port. He, Alfonso de Albuquerque was sure he wanted to make this port a jewel in the Portuguese crown. In the year 1510, he finally conquered it and marking this site stands the Chapel of St. Catherine. By 1530, the Portuguese had shifted their capital from Kochi (Cochin) to Old Goa. This was a period when there was staunch opposition in Roman Catholicism to any form of heresy. The Church was anxious to protect their followers and spread the message as far as possible. Since the Portuguese wanted Goa for keeps, they went about restructuring it to their taste and religious beliefs. In a letter dated 6th January 1543, to the king a message was sent from Goa praising the work of a carpenter who had destroyed almost all pagodas and houses of idolatry worship in Goa.

Goa however did not suffer much due to this demolition. It came up with another kind of architecture and landscape, equally bewitching. Churches and cathedrals in squares with cobbled floors inspired a saying of the times - Quem vin Goa excuse de ver Lisbon. Which translated in English means - Whoever has seen Goa, need not see Lisbon.

Places of tourist Interest
The best way to savor the delights of Old Goa is to enter as the Portuguese did, through the port. The Viceregal Arch or the ceremonial endurance is the first sight to marvel at. And as you amble into Old Goa, you are transported into another world, somewhere along Iberian culture. Old Goa is replete with churches and more churches. The Church of St. Francis of Assisi stands along with the Se Cathedral in the same compound. Se Cathedral or Saint Catherine is the largest church in Asia and is built in splendid Renaissance architecture. The Cathedral is 260 feet. Long aisle culminates in a beautifully carved gilt altarpiece. There is a font in the church, which perhaps links Old Goa's past and present. People believe that it was possibly a vessel of Hindu origin but here it was used by Goa's patron saint, St. Francis Xavier.

Another evidence is the frescoes on the buttressed walls that combine European and Indian elements. This is all more evident in the Church of our Lady of the Rosary. The general spirit of the architecture of the twin cathedrals however is Romanesque with emerging Gothic characteristics being evident. The tall arches of the cathedrals soaring heavenwards, the high windows and columns and door carved with biblical stories, speak of Europe in that period.

The Basilica of Bom Jesus is another such magnificent cathedral where the mortal remains of St. Francis are kept. It is the best example of Baroque architecture in India. The tomb which houses the remains of St. Francis came from Italy, donated by the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The silver casket inside the airtight coffin was made by a 17th century Florentine jeweler. On the south door hangs a picture they say is that of the saint.

There are many more churches in Old Goa. Some are in a state of deterioration and some just in disuse. The Convent of St. Monica is one the largest nunneries of Goa. Its high walls are inspiring even today. Old Goa is a place to be visited if you travel to Goa. It's place where memory plagiarizes history and imagination plays on the eight square kilometer patch, delving now into the ruins and now into the magnificent architectural splendor of the Portuguese.

How to Travel
There is a frequent bus service from Panaji/Panjim that takes not more than 15 - 20 minutes to reach Old Goa. These buses drop the passengers opposite the Basilica of Bom Jesus. You can also take auto rickshaws and taxis, which are costlier but frequently available from Panaji/Panjim. Most of the monuments of importance are available around the bus stand only. The ride from Panaji/Panjim is very attractive as the road passes over the causeway built over a swamp in 1633 by the then Viceroy. To return back to Panaji/Panjim, pick up the returning bus from east of the large roundabout.