Hotel Samode Palace, Jaipur

If you are planning to travel to Rajasthan, Hotel Samode Palace near Jaipur is one of the best hotels to stay in Rajasthan. Deep in the desert, against a background of stony hills lies the large sprawling Haveli (palace) of Samode. The landscape around Samode is painted in various shades of brown, burnt umber, gold, amber, and russet. To reach the Samode Palace one has to first pass through the quaint little village of Samode.

Within the four walls you can almost believe you are in another world, in another time. The view of the façade is rather imposing; the main building fans out to the sides and a series of balconies one atop another are set in the centre. Fretwork screens run all along the length of the top floor, for people inside to look out unobserved. From the curved roof the family standard gaily flutters emblazoned with its coat of arms.

The Samode Palace belongs to the Rawalas of Samode. It is about four hundred years old, of course, with additions and new modifications. Of late it has been converted into a comfortable hotel run by the family.

Hotel Specifications

Accommodation

The house is built in the characteristic pattern of an open courtyard with rooms leading off the arched corridor that runs along all four sides of the building. The Sultan Mahal is on the first floor - an exquisite room with a marble pillared verandah. It has the famous Jaipur blue tile decorations. Every inch of the ceiling and the walls are covered with floral, paisley and geometric motifs painted in vegetable colors. It is called Sultan Mahal after the painstaking craftsman, who created it. Old and heavy carved silver furniture brought form Nepal by the grandmother of the present Rawal gleams dully as a ray of sunlight strikes it. To the left of the main haveli is the Durbar Hall, which was built about a hundred years ago. Again it is completely painted in ornate floral motifs and colored delicately with vegetable pigments which still have a special glow of their own.

A hall of mirrors which is a must for any palace of consequence is also to be found in Samode. Large and tiny fragments of polished mirror are set into plasterwork - you walk into the room and see a thousand images of yourself. At night a single candle flame can create the effect of a thousand stars - a magical experience to say the least. The people of the desert love mirrors, because the cool polished surface reminds them of water. Paintings reminiscent of the miniature style depict warriors, scenes of shikar (hunting), birds and beasts and fish-eyed maidens frolicking with Lord Krishna.

There are 20 gracious elegantly appointed guest rooms done in traditional Rajasthani fabrics and furniture. When we were there an extra touch of glamour was added by the presence of the very young 'Rawal Sahib', walking around in his immaculate white Jodhpurs and short jacket. Samode being a family run hotel is small enough for all guests to merit personalized attention from its royal hosts.

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